Wednesday, 17 October 2012

Letter From Belgium - Dated 20th September

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Dear Emily,

The country of Belgium is having an election. On the 22nd the people will decide between the men from the Blue Party, whose leader believes in employment and speaking French, and the men from the Red Party whose leader believes in work and speaking Flemish. While to a non-resident the question might seem immaterial, after all Belgium has managed to function perfectly well for about a year without a government, the citizenry seem very excited about the upcoming election and who can begrudge the excitement of citizens.
            Posters are plastered up everywhere - outside houses, shops, and restaurants. Billboards, Red and Blue, clad the taller of the buildings and from them bear down the faces of the potential potentiates of the plurality of provinces. Wealthier neighbourhoods support Blue, poorer neighbourhoods support Red; the colour coordination seems reassuringly like our own.
            For those disturbed by any perceived similarity between the parties I was delighted to discover a third way. The Pink Party. While I have no idea what they believe in, I know that they have a van, are running a candidate in our province, and are not supported by those who support the Red or Blue Parties.
            There are also advertisements for a charity that supports the blind in all of the metro stations of Brussels. Done in the style of one of the party posters they bemoan politics based on linguistic differences and suggest standardising on braille instead.
            Communication has been a theme of this holiday. I am writing to you from my bedroom in a Cistercian monastery where silence is the lingua franca. The silence has a lushness to it, it is enveloping, one could quite easily become lost in the silence – two hundred monks already have, sunk into it, it is a most majestic absence
            But it is not true silence. Listen closely to the silence and a hundred thousand things are clearly audible. In the silence one’s hearing sharpens immensely. I can tell that there is a woman walking in a passage below me at the other end of the guesthouse, I can tell that she’s short and thin, that she’s in good health, that she’s walking towards me. The man in the room across from me is writing something in biro. Three of the swallows that nest under the eaves of the smaller chapel are in flight, the light breeze is rustling the leaves of the three hundred year oak in the ruins of the old abbey.
            My own nib sounds like a rodent tentatively appraising food. And when I stop writing and concentrate inwards I can hear noises that are deafening. I can hear blood as it’s pumped around my head, I can hear my eardrums themselves each time they vibrate in an attempt to capture a noise. I am no longer using my ears to hear, I am using touch, sensation, contraction and loosening of muscles, I can hear my body and it’s sublime.
            Only in the mornings do we talk, and in the mornings meaning is lost in the noise. Belgium has three languages. Us forty guests have maybe ten, and the sale a manger, a great stone hall whose windows display fantastic beasts and scenes of the resurrection, echoes in Italian and German, Dutch and Afrikaans, Spanish and Portuguese, English and French and Flemish. We search together for common tongues, French is the most widely spoken and so the most often heard. Yet the French spoken here is different entirely: It is more accent tolerant than that of France, words are substituted for other Belgian languages – ‘fromage’ becomes ‘kaas’ for instance – and word order is often German or English. It no doubt appals the French guests and also the monks who deliver all their prayers in French, but for me whose French is – as you well know – lousy it’s a much easier language. It’s a relief also for Joe whose French is worse even then mine, we used sit across from each other in GCSE French back in school all those years ago. This easier more liberal French is naturally of no use to the Americans who don’t speak anything other than their bastardised English.
            We’ve adopted two American kids at the monastery, eighteen year olds, who despite some impressively dogmatic belief in scripture (but very little textual understanding or background knowledge of it) seem to be finding the whole ‘being in Europe’ thing rather difficult. One’s called Felix who’s here because he’s “struggling with his attraction to men” (this is almost the very first thing he told me!) and the other’s Alex who’s there to support him and find God or some such thing. They don’t drink, smoke, or have impure thoughts (except Felix who’s fighting them valiantly), they’re quite dull really but they’re sort of sweet in their own way.
            We don’t get any news here, there’s no radio or television naturally but also no newspapers, and so I have no idea what’s happened in the world in the last few days. It has the curious effect of making time not seem to pass. I may miss the results of the Belgian election, although I’m sure if they manage to form an elected government while I’m here that the moratorium on outside knowledge will be temporarily lifted; us Catholics are very keen on miracles. Keep me abreast of anything interesting in world and UK affairs.     
Anyway I’m conscious that this letter’s becoming a tad long so I’ll sign off here and wish you the best of luck with your own holiday. Oh and thanks for the birthday text, a monk brought me beer and biscuits yesterday as well.
            Love, Daniel

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